Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage arrives at a graffiti-covered station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered fencing panels as storm clouds gather.

It is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump mauve berries on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just above Bristol town centre.

"I've noticed people concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."

Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He's organized a loose collective of growers who produce vintage from four discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the group's WhatsApp group is named Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the Globe

To date, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred plants on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines overlooking and within Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking nations, but has discovered them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by creating permanent, yielding farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.

Like all wines, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who care for the fruit. "A bottle of wine embodies the charm, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," adds the president.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Returning to the city, the grower is in a urgent timeline to gather the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European grape," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten berries from the shimmering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you don't have to treat them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Across Bristol

The other members of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, one cultivator is collecting her rondo grapes from about fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in recent years. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the vines in the garden of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I really like the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to someone else so they can continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."

Currently, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from lines of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after seeing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were historically produced, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Environments and Inventive Solutions

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated his neighbor to plant her vines, has gathered his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with amusement. "This variety is late to ripen and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has been compelled to install a fence on

April Mathis
April Mathis

Blockchain enthusiast and staking expert with over five years of experience in decentralized finance and crypto education.